SEAToday.com, Jakarta - It's a common misconception that the cost of living in Jakarta is exorbitant. Housing, transportation, and food alone can quickly drain a monthly salary. However, this isn't entirely accurate. For those seeking a livelihood in Jakarta, there are always ways to manage expenses.

Take food, for instance. Warung Tegal (Warteg) has long been a lifesaver for those on a budget. The food is affordable and diverse, a tradition that has persisted since the Japanese occupation and throughout Indonesia's independence. Run primarily by migrants from Tegal, these eateries have become a favorite for many.

Jakarta's allure has been unmatched in the Nusantara. Once known as Batavia, it was the center of the Dutch East India Company (VOC) and later, the Dutch colonial government.

This prominence led to concentrated development in Batavia. The city was considered superior in every way, offering numerous job opportunities and amenities. Word of mouth spread, encouraging people from all over the archipelago to seek their fortune in Batavia.

"By 1940, Batavia had many schools, hospitals, clinics, and entertainment venues like cinemas and swimming pools. At a glance, Westernization seemed widespread, with many residents able to obtain a Western education, consult doctors, and watch the latest European and American films," wrote Susan Blackburn in her book, "Jakarta: Sejarah 400 Tahun" (Jakarta: A 400-Year History) (2012).

The pursuit of a better life in Jakarta was widespread. Those who migrated to Batavia were almost certain to improve their circumstances and achieve stability. People from various ethnic groups arrived with hopes of a new beginning.

The Rise of Warteg

Migrants from various regions of the Nusantara flocked to Batavia in search of better opportunities and a new life. Among these migrants were many from Tegal, particularly from the villages of Cabawan, Sidakaton, Kraton, and Sidapurna.

Upon arriving in Batavia, these migrants took on various jobs. The men often worked in manual labor, as construction workers or laborers. Their wives, to supplement the family income, would open small eateries.

This trend became particularly noticeable during the Japanese occupation of Indonesia. Tegalese migrants began establishing small eateries that would later become known as "warteg" in Batavia, which was renamed Jakarta. The affordable prices of the food served in these wartegs made them immensely popular.

Wartegs provided a lifeline for many people struggling to make ends meet. With the economic hardships faced by Indonesians at the time, the affordable and filling meals offered by wartegs were a godsend. The success of these early warteg owners encouraged more Tegalese to open their own establishments.

After Indonesia gained independence, wartegs began to spread to other parts of the country. They were seen as a symbol of resilience and adaptability. In the economically challenging post-independence period, wartegs provided a reliable and affordable source of food for many Indonesians.

As a magazine article from Tempo in 1983 noted, "Warno (one of the pioneering warteg owners) often reminisced about the heyday of his business in the 1950s. He could sell up to a quintal of fried cassava a day. Thanks to his success, he was able to send one of his children to university, who later became a prominent figure in the warteg industry."

Most warteg owners of that era were not interested in long-term business ventures. Once they had accumulated enough wealth, they would often return to their home villages. Jakarta, for them, was merely a place to earn a living, not a permanent home.

Jakarta's Boom, Warteg's Bloom

The popularity of wartegs surged during the Sukarno era and the Old Order period, when Jakarta underwent significant development. The city's transformation was particularly accelerated in preparation for the 1962 Asian Games. Sukarno was determined to showcase Indonesia on the world stage.

To achieve this, Sukarno initiated the construction of a grand sports complex, which later became known as the Gelora Bung Karno Sports Complex. He also planned to build luxury hotels and other monumental structures.

To fund these ambitious projects, Sukarno sought assistance from his friend, Soviet leader Nikita Khrushchev. Sukarno explained that the sports complex was not only for the Asian Games but also served as a platform to connect with the people. As Khrushchev noted in his memoirs, "Among the leaders of states, I know that Sukarno stood out in his ability to mobilize public support. Sukarno could not be compared with Jawaharlal Nehru. In general, Sukarno liked to gather large crowds. He needed a large audience, and thus he needed a big stage, and that was the stadium, which we eventually built."

With a soft loan from the Soviet Union, construction projects began in earnest, attracting a large influx of workers, primarily from Central Java, especially Tegal. These workers often brought their families to Jakarta. While the men worked as construction laborers, the women opened small eateries, or wartegs, to support their families.

The strategic location of these wartegs near construction sites proved to be profitable. Many workers relied on wartegs for their daily meals. Gradually, wartegs became synonymous with affordable and convenient meals for Jakarta's working class. Warteg owners began to display their dishes in glass cases to attract customers.

By 1982, the number of wartegs in Jakarta had reached 10,000, leading to the formation of the Warteg Cooperative (Kowarteg). This marked a significant milestone in the growth and organization of the warteg industry. Today, wartegs remain a ubiquitous and beloved part of Jakarta's culinary landscape.